WORK IN SPAIN – A PERSONAL VIEW OF SPANISH CULTURE AT WORK

I have spent the past seven years working in Spain - which has been a somewhat interesting experience. In a way, it has enhanced my life in Spain. Certainly, within the predicatable frustrations of normal day to day work, it has provided a fascinating insight into Spanish culture – or, at least, the working Spanish culture of our area.

I am, of course, a journalist and author - so most of my time is spent writing. Unfortunately, this is rarely profitable enough to avoid having to work for real! So, during the past seven years, I have also had to work in Spain, at times, conventionally. This has included acting as a management consultant to two estate agencies selling Spanish property and as a marketing consultant to other unrelated businesses.

So, you may well ask, what is it like to work in Spain?

Well, firstly, I must emphasise that my experience of working in Spain has been restricted to the Comunitat de Valencia (an area that stretches down much of the middle to bottom part of east coast Spain). So, it may not be representative of the rest of the country. Indeed, even to speak in terms of anything to do with Spanish culture (whether social or working) is, to some extent, always going to be little more than a generalisation. Spain is nothing if not vast and has very significant regional variations. That said, I suspect that much of what I have experienced is reasonably true for much of the country:

If you wish to work in Spain, the first thing to appreciate is how, in most areas, Spanish businesses seem to operate within a very personal network of close contacts – often extended family. All of these are frequently interwoven with other businesses which are often completely unrelated. For example, the head of one business (sometimes even a very small one) can often be connected, quite unexpectedly, to other businesses that you never realised had anything to do with the person concerned. This can make working in Spain a somewhat hazardous matter. Upset one person and you can find that you have, unwittingly, upset a whole range of completely ‘unrelated’ people – running a series of businesses potentially important to you!.

Of course, tight social and working networks have their advantages. If your work meets with the approval of one person - your reputation can spread firmly within that particular local ‘circle’. The trouble is that this is organic growth at its slowest - and it is very difficult to accelerate! Unfortunately, Spain (or at least the Comunitat de Valencia) seems to work on personal recommendation to (almost) the exclusion of all else.

As a consequence of the above, it is vital to understand the importance of an ‘enchufe’. Strictly speaking, this is Spanish for an 'electical' plug – however, in human terms, it means something quite different and something that few North Europeans ever seem fully able to grasp. This is despite the fact that understanding the importance of an ‘enchufe’ is fundamental to success for anyone working in Spain.

An ‘enchufe’ is someone with ‘connections’ i.e. someone influential either in a social or work sense – although both, as I have mentioned, are generally inextricably interwined. This is the type of person who can introduce you to contacts (and contracts) way beyond your ‘pay scale’. An ‘enchufe’ is absolutely vital in a range of multifarious ways and can get you out of trouble - or make the critical difference between your work in Spain being a success or failure.

Needless to say, ‘enchufes’need to be treated with great care together with an absolute recognition that a favour asked - is one to be repaid at some time. Misunderstand this concept and any work in Spain (connected with the Spanish) will be an uphill struggle! So, identify an ‘enchufe’ - critical to your work - and make sure you look after him (or her) even if, at times, the relationship can feel strained, artifical or lop-sided!

Spain is, of course, the land of small businesses. This is not say that there are not ‘big’ businesses but that most businesses are small and family owned. So, much of the time you are likely to be working in Spain with business people (outside of the major cities) who are somewhat parochial. This tends to mean (as a dangerous generality) that they are not always very sophisticated. This may be the reason why doing business in provincial Spain can sometimes feel a little bit ‘manana-ish’ (if there is such a word!) and sluggish.

Certainly, I have had countless meetings with some very dynamic sounding (and looking) Spaniards who, at the time, seemed to have definitely understood a particular proposal – and given it the green light. Unfortunately, all too often, nothing actually happened in reality. This may, of course, have something to do with the lunacy of my own proposals! However, if it does, then it reflects a common feeling (amongst British business friends) that the Spanish are sometimes infuriatingly reticent (maybe from politeness) simply to say no or that something is rubbish! Either way, my own experience is that it can be hard to ‘nail down’ a contract – despite being under the very distinct impression that everything is going ahead.

None of this must be taken as meaning that it is impossible to work in Spain or that the Spanish do not work hard. That would be to completely misunderstand my experience. The Spanish work extremely hard and labour for long hours for little pay. They are a delight to work with and invariably charming and fun. In fact, I have no doubts at all that my life in Spain (and that of my wife) has been enhanced by working here.

However, recognise that working in Spain is different from the UK and that you have to find a strategy that works for you. This, by definition, should take into account all the wonderful parts of Spanish culture - together with those parts that can make work in Spain, at times, exasperating!

In other words, be prepared to adjust your expectations and normal working practices to suit the different environment of Spain. If you do this successfully then your life in Spain and any work in Spain that you do - will be both fulfilling and rewarding...1

SPANISH CULTURE – WHY LIFE IN SPAIN WORKS…

A week ago, I was reminded, yet again, of why life in Spain works so well for me and why, as a family, we are so comfortable here. Indeed, last week’s ‘reminder’ exemplified the glory of Spanish culture and provided (for me, at least) probably the single most compelling reason for moving to Spain.

Along with much of the rest of Spain, the weekend before last was when the annual fiesta of San Antonio was celebrated. This is a ‘minor’ but ritualised fiesta that revolves around the blessing of a community’s animals.

In my village, the night before the fiesta, there were fireworks and a large bonfire, around which much of the village gathered to enjoy the delights of free wine and nuts and jovial company. The next day (Sunday) the morning church service was followed by a formal procession that circled the village. This involved an effigy from the church being rolled out and pushed by several of the village men with, behind it, our village priest looking suitably solumn. Behind him were twenty or so members of our village band playing beautifully performed music that ranged from the stirring to the elegaic.

However, the most extraordinary sight of all was seeing the vast majority of the village population (from the oldest to the very youngest) walking ahead of the effigy - with virtually everyone carrying or leading their animals. These varied from parrots, mice and small creatures to tortoises, dogs and horses.

As you can imagine, the procession was lively and good natured. Excited children proudly showed off their pets to their friends whilst the villagers natural good humour was to the fore, amidst barking dogs and skitterish horses.

Gradually, the procession wound its way through the village and slowly back to the church where the priest was presented with the villager’s animals. These were blessed individually before the villagers eventually dispersed to their homes and various bars.

I can almost hear you sighing in bored incredulity! What, you may well ask, has this got to do with moving to Spain?

Well, in my view, everything!

Yet again, our village demonstrated that not only was Spanish culture ‘alive and well’ but that it was relevant to the whole community. Almost the entire village was involved in the fiesta and almost everyone took an active part.

Naturally, it would be easy to make fun of the idea of ‘blessing’ animals, just as you could easily mistake the San Antonio fiesta for indicating a deep religiosity amongst the Spanish. Certainly, the latter is not true, anymore in my village than elsewhere in Spain. The Spanish are a secular society with, probably, the same low proportion of people attending church as in the UK. However, in Spain, a fiesta (based on religion or otherwise) is all about the unity of a community as a whole. This means that the participation of everyone is important - even if it involves giving a gentle and tolerant ‘nod’ to any religious element.

My point, of course, is that the ‘nuclear’ community in Spain (as a whole) still exists and, in the case of my delightful village, it works very well. It functions ‘overtly’ as seen during fiestas but also (far more importantly) it works on a day to day basis. This is why crime is low and why life in Spain can be so seductive, particularly if you integrate within your local Spanish community. If you do - then you have every chance of being an integral part of a ‘culture’ that probably last existed in the UK, in any meaningful sense, over fifty years ago.

Certainly, our life in Spain has been ‘made’ by the Spanish themselves and by Spanish culture. Not high Spanish culture, of course, but the culture present in our day to day lives. Overwhelmingly, this has been one of toleration and welcome, generosity of spirit and a sense of fun - all within a caring, tightly knit community.

Of course, the weather is great, the al fresco life attractive and access to beautiful beaches and mountains wonderful. However, none of these things are sufficient, long term, to make life in Spain (in my view!) truly fulfilling. That, for us, has come from the Spanish people themselves, their way of life, values and overall culture. These are the real reasons for moving to Spain and why life in Spain can be so enchanting...

Incidentally, were we (as Britons) allowed to participate in the fiesta and have our animals blessed? Absolutely - and several English friends of ours did so. Unfortunately, we have a huge Alsatian who would ‘dine’ on other animals -given half the chance - so we could not take her! However, we did join the procession and enjoyed the lovely atmosphere - whilst openly declaring our support and committment to our village.

Wonderful!1

SPANISH CULTURE - LIFE IN SPAIN FOR THE SPANISH!

Shortly after moving to Spain, I asked a friend of mine to describe the Spanish dream (for a Spaniard) to me. This may seem an odd question but I remember feeling that if, for the forseeable future, I was going to spend my life in Spain – then I needed to understand the essence of contemporary Spanish culture. In effect, I was asking: what makes the Spanish tick? What is their motivation, day to day?

My friend smiled at me and, with no pause for reflection, said:

“In no particular order, the average Spaniard wants:
1. A decent flat in a busy town.
2. A frontline beach apartment.
3. A new Mercedes.
4. Fluency in English.
5. A job with the Spanish state.”

I was a little flabbergasted, to be honest. However, my friend was someone to listen to - given that he has lived and worked in Spain for almost thirty years. Furthermore, he is a noted linguist with a keen interest in Spanish culture and the many different aspects of life in Spain. He knows the country intimately and is constantly moving around different parts of Spain.

Of course, his assertion about the ‘Spanish dream’ was never meant as more than a gross over-simplification and, of all people, he knew that he was providing a generalisation that could never apply to every Spaniard. Equally, what he was stating was no denial of all the normal human needs and desires of us all. By these, I mean good health, happy relationships, fit children, untold wealth(!) and so on...

Over the years, I have thought approvingly about my friend’s assessment of the ‘Spanish dream’. I still have nothing like my friend’s depth of insight into Spanish culture but my experience (however narrow) of life in Spain seems to bear out his assertions. In fact, they say rather a lot about Spain and what the population want and how they live their lives. This should be important knowledge for any foreigner thinking of moving to Spain – or, at least, a helpful foundation to question over time.

So my thoughts on my friend’s assertions, given my own (limited) experience - and accepting what I say to be generalisations:

- Dismissing the easy one first: the new Mercedes. I guess we should all like one and this is nothing unusual! However, I have to say that the Spanish, old and young, seem to love their vehicles big (and new). Buying cars second hand is not favoured (thus the high price for them) and smaller, faster sports cars are rare in Spain – where in the UK they would be common.

- The Spanish are a gregarious people and like living in their towns and cities. They find commuting hard to understand, along with the isolation of living in detached houses on estates devoid of amenities. So, large, light, modern, well located flats with their own parking are highly desirable. This also goes for frontline beach apartments (which really surprised me - when my friend stated these as important). The truth is that the Spanish absolutely love the sea and Mediterranean beach life – if anything more than most Britons that I know! Indeed, during the summer they flock to the beach in vast numbers. So, a front line beach apartment is the ultimate luxury!

- In Spain, the English language has finally been recognised as fundamentally important. However, surpringly, few Spanish people are fluent, despite the Spanish government ‘racking’ up the pressure to learn English. This is now an integral and obligatory part of all schooling – including for the all-important Bachillerato (equivalent to ‘A’ Levels) and Selectivo (university) examinations. It is also increasingly being looked upon as vital to any professional for his career (with many Spaniards recognising that better job prospects and salaries are available in Northern Europe and elsewhere).

- A job with the Spanish state! Working for the Spanish state is not well paid but it provides ‘rock solid’ security once a Spaniard has passed the dauntingly difficult examinations (oposiciones) applicable to the post he wants. In effect, a state job is ‘for life’ – in a way that is even more so the case than in the UK!

So, does this tell us much about the Spanish and Spanish culture (within the confines of generalisations)? I think it does – or at least provides some idea of what life in Spain is about for the Spanish. Certainly, if you are thinking of moving to Spain and (and perhaps working here) then few things are more important than having some idea about what motivates people...1