Showing posts with label Fiesta. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fiesta. Show all posts

Monday, 25 January 2010

SPANISH CULTURE – WHY LIFE IN SPAIN WORKS…


A week ago, I was reminded, yet again, of why life in Spain works so well for me and why, as a family, we are so comfortable here. Indeed, last week’s ‘reminder’ exemplified the glory of Spanish culture and provided (for me, at least) probably the single most compelling reason for moving to Spain.

Along with much of the rest of Spain, the weekend before last was when the annual fiesta of San Antonio was celebrated. This is a ‘minor’ but ritualised fiesta that revolves around the blessing of a community’s animals.

In my village, the night before the fiesta, there were fireworks and a large bonfire, around which much of the village gathered to enjoy the delights of free wine and nuts and jovial company. The next day (Sunday) the morning church service was followed by a formal procession that circled the village. This involved an effigy from the church being rolled out and pushed by several of the village men with, behind it, our village priest looking suitably solumn. Behind him were twenty or so members of our village band playing beautifully performed music that ranged from the stirring to the elegaic.

However, the most extraordinary sight of all was seeing the vast majority of the village population (from the oldest to the very youngest) walking ahead of the effigy - with virtually everyone carrying or leading their animals. These varied from parrots, mice and small creatures to tortoises, dogs and horses.

As you can imagine, the procession was lively and good natured. Excited children proudly showed off their pets to their friends whilst the villagers natural good humour was to the fore, amidst barking dogs and skitterish horses.

Gradually, the procession wound its way through the village and slowly back to the church where the priest was presented with the villager’s animals. These were blessed individually before the villagers eventually dispersed to their homes and various bars.

I can almost hear you sighing in bored incredulity! What, you may well ask, has this got to do with moving to Spain?

Well, in my view, everything!

Yet again, our village demonstrated that not only was Spanish culture ‘alive and well’ but that it was relevant to the whole community. Almost the entire village was involved in the fiesta and almost everyone took an active part.

Naturally, it would be easy to make fun of the idea of ‘blessing’ animals, just as you could easily mistake the San Antonio fiesta for indicating a deep religiosity amongst the Spanish. Certainly, the latter is not true, anymore in my village than elsewhere in Spain. The Spanish are a secular society with, probably, the same low proportion of people attending church as in the UK. However, in Spain, a fiesta (based on religion or otherwise) is all about the unity of a community as a whole. This means that the participation of everyone is important - even if it involves giving a gentle and tolerant ‘nod’ to any religious element.

My point, of course, is that the ‘nuclear’ community in Spain (as a whole) still exists and, in the case of my delightful village, it works very well. It functions ‘overtly’ as seen during fiestas but also (far more importantly) it works on a day to day basis. This is why crime is low and why life in Spain can be so seductive, particularly if you integrate within your local Spanish community. If you do - then you have every chance of being an integral part of a ‘culture’ that probably last existed in the UK, in any meaningful sense, over fifty years ago.

Certainly, our life in Spain has been ‘made’ by the Spanish themselves and by Spanish culture. Not high Spanish culture, of course, but the culture present in our day to day lives. Overwhelmingly, this has been one of toleration and welcome, generosity of spirit and a sense of fun - all within a caring, tightly knit community.

Of course, the weather is great, the al fresco life attractive and access to beautiful beaches and mountains wonderful. However, none of these things are sufficient, long term, to make life in Spain (in my view!) truly fulfilling. That, for us, has come from the Spanish people themselves, their way of life, values and overall culture. These are the real reasons for moving to Spain and why life in Spain can be so enchanting...

Incidentally, were we (as Britons) allowed to participate in the fiesta and have our animals blessed? Absolutely - and several English friends of ours did so. Unfortunately, we have a huge Alsatian who would ‘dine’ on other animals -given half the chance - so we could not take her! However, we did join the procession and enjoyed the lovely atmosphere - whilst openly declaring our support and committment to our village.

Wonderful!1

Wednesday, 19 August 2009

SIESTA TO FIESTA!


No Blog on Spain in August would be ‘worth its salt’ if it did not mention fiestas - because the summer in Spain is replete with them. Seemingly, every village and town is alive with partying, shows, bands and religious processions that dazzle with colour and charm as ancient traditions and modern activities are gloriously intermixed.

Village and town fiestas are something that the holiday tourist visiting Spain rarely sees and yet they are, for me, a constant and reassuring affirmation of Spain’s individuality and the depth of its culture. They are also a demonstration, if ever one was needed, of a nuclear society that is still functioning.

So what is a fiesta? This seems a silly question to ask but few Britons seem to know and some equate a fiesta, wrongly, to a UK village fair.

In fact, strictly speaking the word ‘fiesta’ just means ‘party’. However, when it comes to town and village fiestas that is where the resemblance ends. Perhaps this is best illustrated by looking at the (current) annual fiesta of my beloved pueblo, Barx in Valencia province. However, its fiesta, in one form or another, is replicated everywhere else in Spain mainly (but not exclusively) during the summer months.

The fiesta lasts a full week, to all intents and purposes is free and is fully inclusive of the whole village. Our program, this year, is as follows:

Day 1 Children’s day. Activities of various sorts for children: animation group, children’s theatre, decoration of the streets, aquatic fun etc.
Day 2 General. Swimming championship, bonzai exhibition, festival of traditional dance from Ukrainian band, Brotherhood suppper etc.
Day 3 Young people’s day. Breakfast at an appointed cafe, card games, lunch and disco, fancy dress parade, further disco (starts at midnight!)
Day 4 Pensioner’s day. Band parade through village with pensioners and authorities, Solumn procession, Variety show (12.30 am), Disco (02.00 hrs!)
Day 5 Day of Lady of Carmel and Sacred Heart. Band, village and authorities parade, Holy Mass, Mascaleta (special fireworks), lunch at nominated restaurant, solumn procession, fireworks, big band (13.00 hrs!)
Day 6 Day of Sam Miguel (village patron saint). Band, village and authorities parade, Holy Mass, mascaleta, solumn procession, fireworks, big band (midnight!)
Day 7 Day of the Divine Shepherdess. Wake up call (07.00 hrs!), bell ringling, parade of the authorities, solumn Mass, mascaleta, inaugauration of new building, parade with band and village, floral tributes, solumn procession, fireworks, big band (13.00 hrs).
Day 8 Andalusian show at the open air theatre.
Now that is a fiesta!

Every day and throughout each day (except during siesta) there is something going on beyond the on-going private parties and celebrations of the villagers.

It is amazing!

However, the most astonishing thing (for my British eyes) is to see almost every single person in the village participating thoughout the fiesta - whether ancient, middle aged, teenager or baby.

Whatever you do, make sure that you attend a village or small town fiesta if you come to Spain. If you are not enchanted then, without doubt, you are in the wrong country -or you cannot see joie de vivre when it is front of your eyes!

However, be prepared! The constant extent of the partying is incredible with any major bands and shows often not starting until midnight or 1 am. So, have a good sleep in the afternoons, so that you can enjoy yourself to the full. To fiesta - you need to siesta!

Obviously, I will be taking full advantage of our fiesta - so expect me to be out of touch this week - and grumpy with exhaustion next week...1